The bath a deer revealed
The name Kakeyu, 'the bath taught by a deer', comes from a legend in which the bodhisattva Monju took the form of a deer to show a devout hunter where the hot water rose. The Monju-do hall across the gorge enshrines a statue said to have been carved by the monk Gyoki, and the spring is held to have been flowing some 1,200 years ago. By the Edo period it was a flourishing toji resort, as the tourism association still notes. In 1956 it was designated a National Health Resort Hot Spring together with Reisenji and Oshio as 'Uchimura Onsen', later renamed the Maruko hot-spring group.[4][2]
A spa with a hospital
In September 1956, the same year as the health-resort designation, the JA Nagano agricultural cooperative's medical arm opened a hospital in Kakeyu. Today's Kakeyu Hospital has 475 beds and has spent more than seventy years as a rehabilitation hospital for stroke and orthopaedic patients, merging with Misayama Hospital in 2023. With the hospital at the centre, inns offering self-catering wings and room-only stays, and a trainer from the Kurhaus leading exercises in the Monju-do grounds at nine every morning, this is the old toji tradition carried on alongside modern medicine.[6][5][8]
A plain, gentle simple spring
The association posts a simple hot spring (mildly alkaline, hypotonic, high temperature) at 46.0 °C, colourless and without any strong character. At Monju-no-yu the hot water of five sources is blended for two indoor tubs and an open-air tub on each side. A gentle water you can bathe in daily without fatigue is exactly what a long-stay cure village needs. Drinking indications are posted too, with a warning that children under 15 should not drink it.[2][3]
A mountain bath reached by bus
There is no railway station: buses take about 70 minutes from Ueda (three a day) or about 50 minutes from Matsumoto (two on weekdays, none on weekends or holidays). With so few services, fix your bus time before you book a room. By car it is about 40 minutes from either the Tobu-Yunomaru or Matsumoto expressway exits, with a free 40-space car park beside the community centre.[4]