What is an onsen?
Not every warm pool that rises from the ground is an onsen. Japan has a legal definition — and under it, even cold water can be an onsen.
Japan Onsen Atlas
What a hot spring is, the ten spring types, radon, kakenagashi, how to read a water analysis, and the culture of onsen towns and toji stays — written for readers without specialist knowledge.
Not every warm pool that rises from the ground is an onsen. Japan has a legal definition — and under it, even cold water can be an onsen.
"2,839 onsen areas." "27,899 spring sources." Familiar numbers — but what they count changes everything.
"Going to Kusatsu Onsen" involves a town (the area), a spring called Yubatake (the source), the inn you stay in (the facility) and its open-air bath (the bath). They are four different things.
A spring type is the name of what is dissolved in the water. There are ten, from "simple" to "radioactive". Knowing how each tends to look, smell and feel changes how you choose.
"Radioactive spring" sounds alarming, yet these waters have been used for therapeutic stays in Japan for centuries. What is radon, how much is there, and how do you bathe in it?
Fresh spring water flows into the tub, and whatever overflows is simply let go. Simple — but only possible when flow and temperature allow. We also sort out how it differs from "100% source water".
Four words on the changing-room notice. Each has its reasons, and together they tell you not whether a bath is good or bad, but how far the water has travelled from the source.
Colour is not a spring type. A sulfur spring can be clear, and milky water has more than one cause. Here we treat colour as a separate, visual classification.
The white threads floating in the tub, the stony crust on its rim, the crystals grown in thatched huts — all of them are "yunohana", flowers of the hot spring.
You can bathe at a "98 °C" spring because the water is cooled on its way to the tub. Keeping the two temperatures apart shows how each onsen solves the problem.
That sheet of numbers on the changing-room wall tells you exactly what the water is. There are only five places to look.
In Japan an onsen is more than a bath. It is a town walked in yukata, bathhouses kept by villagers, and stays of weeks for one's health — ways of living that grew up around hot water.
Bathe naked, wash first, keep your towel out of the water. Simple once you know, confusing if you don't — here are the rules and the reasons, plus mixed bathing, bathing wear and tattoos.
Inns turn solo guests away, prices are high, there's nowhere to eat. The old wisdom is half true. How to find onsen that welcome one, and what to check.
Under 1 g/kg of dissolved minerals and 25 °C or warmer. Gentle on the skin; pH 8.5 or higher is called "alkaline simple".
451Salt is the main component. A film of salt keeps you warm after bathing — the "heat spring". Common near the coast.
706Baking-soda-like water that lifts oils from the skin, leaving it smooth — often called a "beauty bath".
311Contains gypsum or sodium sulfate. Traditionally called a bath for wounds and circulation.
239Dissolved CO₂ gas forms bubbles on the skin — the "fizzy bath". Warms the body even at low temperature; rare in Japan.
40Contains iron, which oxidises on contact with air and turns the water reddish-brown.
46High in hydrogen ions and sharp on the skin, with strong antibacterial action. Kusatsu and Tamagawa are examples.
24Added to the therapeutic classes in 2014. Common in seawater-derived springs; the water can be tinted yellow to brown.
9The boiled-egg smell. Often milky white — the most "onsen-like" of all. Comes in hydrogen-sulfide and sulfur types.
269Contains radon above a set threshold; bathers receive a very small dose of radiation. Misasa, Masutomi and Arima are examples. Concentrations vary widely.
102