Japan Onsen Atlas

Learn about onsen

What a hot spring is, the ten spring types, radon, kakenagashi, how to read a water analysis, and the culture of onsen towns and toji stays — written for readers without specialist knowledge.

Steaming Yubatake with wooden channels Aspere · CC0

What is an onsen?

Not every warm pool that rises from the ground is an onsen. Japan has a legal definition — and under it, even cold water can be an onsen.

Photo of Beppu Onsen 663highland · CC BY 2.5

How many onsen does Japan have?

"2,839 onsen areas." "27,899 spring sources." Familiar numbers — but what they count changes everything.

Grey crater floor of Jigokudani with rising steam Calistemon · CC BY-SA 4.0

The ten therapeutic spring types

A spring type is the name of what is dissolved in the water. There are ten, from "simple" to "radioactive". Knowing how each tends to look, smell and feel changes how you choose.

An open-air bath and changing hut beside a river 三塚 · CC BY-SA 4.0

What is a radon spring?

"Radioactive spring" sounds alarming, yet these waters have been used for therapeutic stays in Japan for centuries. What is radon, how much is there, and how do you bathe in it?

Attaka-yu bathhouse in snow Purplepumpkins · CC BY-SA 3.0

What is kakenagashi (free-flowing) bathing?

Fresh spring water flows into the tub, and whatever overflows is simply let go. Simple — but only possible when flow and temperature allow. We also sort out how it differs from "100% source water".

Steaming source and foot bath by a river Asturio Cantabrio · CC BY-SA 4.0

Added water, heating, recirculation and disinfection

Four words on the changing-room notice. Each has its reasons, and together they tell you not whether a bath is good or bad, but how far the water has travelled from the source.

Shirahone public open-air bath Soica2001 (talk) · Public domain

Milky springs and springs that change colour

Colour is not a spring type. A sulfur spring can be clear, and milky water has more than one cause. Here we treat colour as a separate, visual classification.

Thatched yunohana huts Belle Equipe · CC BY-SA 3.0

What is yunohana?

The white threads floating in the tub, the stony crust on its rim, the crystals grown in thatched huts — all of them are "yunohana", flowers of the hot spring.

Steaming Yubatake with wooden channels Aspere · CC0

Source temperature and bath temperature

You can bathe at a "98 °C" spring because the water is cooled on its way to the tub. Keeping the two temperatures apart shows how each onsen solves the problem.

An open-air bath and changing hut beside a river 三塚 · CC BY-SA 4.0

How to read a water analysis

That sheet of numbers on the changing-room wall tells you exactly what the water is. There are only five places to look.

Exterior of the wooden Oyu bathhouse 小石川人晃 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Onsen towns, communal baths and toji

In Japan an onsen is more than a bath. It is a town walked in yukata, bathhouses kept by villagers, and stays of weeks for one's health — ways of living that grew up around hot water.

Dogo Onsen Honkan at night Takuya Matsuyama · CC BY 3.0

Your first onsen: how to bathe and the rules

Bathe naked, wash first, keep your towel out of the water. Simple once you know, confusing if you don't — here are the rules and the reasons, plus mixed bathing, bathing wear and tattoos.

Inns along a narrow street Bsx · Public domain

Going to an onsen alone

Inns turn solo guests away, prices are high, there's nowhere to eat. The old wisdom is half true. How to find onsen that welcome one, and what to check.