The bath the lord kept locked
Okutsu lies on the upper Yoshii river in northern Okayama. Warlords such as Sakazaki Dewa-no-kami used it in the Sengoku period, and in the Edo period the Tsuyama lord Mori Tadamasa built a private bathhouse and locked it, leaving the name Kagi-yu, 'the locked bath'. One of the 'three baths of Mimasaka' with Yugo and Yubara, it lost much of the town to fire in 1926 and was designated a National Recuperation Spa in 1966. The 1962 film 'Akitsu Onsen', based on a novel by Fujiwara Shinji, was set here and spread its name (Wikipedia).[1][2][6]
Washing in hot water, treading with the feet
People in Okutsu did their laundry in the hot water that rose through the river. Alkaline water lifts dirt and whitens cloth, ideal in an age without detergent. Because bears and wolves came down from the hills, the women washed standing, treading the cloth with their feet so they could keep watch, and that, tradition says, is how 'foot-treading laundry' began; the poet Yosano Tekkan wrote a verse on the scene. Today women in kimono with red sashes demonstrate it at the laundry place by Okutsu bridge. Typhoon damage in 2023 halted it until May 2026; demonstrations now run on set Sundays and holidays in March and from May to November.[2][1]
A quiet toji spa by the river
Okutsu's water is an alkaline simple spring rising from 150 m down at over 40 °C and 1,000 litres a minute. At Okutsuso the Kagi-yu's 42.6 °C water comes straight up through the tub floor, neither heated nor diluted. For a day visit there is Hanabijin-no-sato (940 yen, closed Thursdays). The bus from Tsuyama takes a little under an hour and runs rarely, so check the timetable. A handful of inns stand along the river, restaurants are few and nights are quiet. Downstream the Okutsu gorge is famed for autumn leaves; in autumn, pair the gorge with a Sunday demonstration and a soak.[1][3][4][6]