What 'hottarakashi' means
The name means roughly 'left alone', chosen to warn visitors from the start that there would be no attentive service (Wikipedia). Kotchi-no-yu ('this bath') opened in July 1999 and Atchi-no-yu ('that bath') in December 2002, each with its own source and its own admission. The site sits on a hill with the Kofu basin spread below and Mt Fuji ahead. With no lodging and day use only, it still draws about 450,000 people a year.[2][1]
One hour before sunrise
What sets this bath apart is its opening time. The official site gives 'one hour before sunrise to 22:00', which means around 4:00 from May to July and around 6:00 from December to February. You enter while the basin's lights still glitter, watch the sky pale, Mt Fuji's outline sharpen and the sun strike it, all from the water, then eat breakfast at the stalls outside. It is one of the places that taught Japan to visit a hot spring for the view.[1][2]
pH 10 water
The water itself is understated: an alkaline simple spring, per Wikipedia 32 °C and pH 9.6 at Kotchi-no-yu, 41.4 °C and pH 10.1 at Atchi-no-yu. Above pH 10 the water very slightly dissolves the skin's surface, giving the slippery feel. The site describes it as low in irritation and suitable for sensitive or older skin. Tattoos are explicitly allowed; towels are sold, not rented.[2][1]