Twelve centuries of hot water
Legend has the general Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, wounded by a poisoned arrow around 800 AD, healing quickly after bathing here. In 1867 the lord of the Nambu domain came for the cure and composed poems with his retainers, and the Eight Views of Osawa by the domain's painter Kawaguchi Getsurei still hang in the inn.[3]
Kenji and Kotaro
As a boy Kenji Miyazawa was brought here again and again by his devout father, since the inn hosted Buddhist lectures. As a student he stopped the waterwheel that lifted the bath water and threw the bathhouse into uproar; later, teaching at Hanamaki agricultural school, he brought his pupils to bathe. In 1945 the sculptor-poet Kotaro Takamura, his Tokyo studio burned, fled to Hanamaki on the strength of Kenji's father and stayed seven years, declaring that Osawa had the taste of a real hot spring.[3]
The inn that bills by the item
Tojiya still works the way cure spas always did: a bare room rate, then daily charges for whatever you borrow, so two yukata over three nights is 220 yen times two times three. Gas in the shared kitchen takes coins, and you can order rice from half a cup. For anyone wanting to linger, the inn suggests renting a room rather than paying for a day bath.[4][1]