From Gyoki to Issa and Hokusai
Shibu is said to have been discovered about 1,300 years ago by the monk Gyoki and counted among the 'hidden springs' of Takeda Shingen (inn association, Wikipedia). In the Edo period the haiku poet Kobayashi Issa and the artist Hokusai visited. Thirty-five inns line a narrow stone street beside the Yokoyu River, drawing on 37 sources at 60–90 °C (Wikipedia). Early-20th-century wooden inns survive, and the evening scene of guests clacking along in yukata and wooden sandals has become the town's signature.[1][4]
Keeping the key
Shibu's nine public baths belong to the townspeople; a traveller gains a key by staying at an inn and may then bathe free from 6:00 to 22:00. The inn hands over a prayer towel, which is stamped at each bath from No. 1 onward; after No. 9, Oyu, a visit to the Takayakushi temple completes the vow, said to 'wash away hardship', a play on ku meaning both nine and suffering (association). Each bath carries a tradition: stomach at Hatsu-yu, skin at Wata-no-yu, eyes at Mearai-no-yu, women's ailments at Shinmeidaki-no-yu. The weight of the key teaches how inseparable the baths and the inns are.[2][3]
Day visitors: Oyu only
For those not staying, only bath No. 9, Oyu, is open; it has admitted paying day visitors since July 2006 (Wikipedia). Today it costs 800 yen for adults and 500 yen for children, 10:00–17:00, with tickets sold at the information office or nearby inns (association). Inside is a concrete bathroom with a wooden floor, no soap and no washing stations, hair washing forbidden, and a door that locks automatically behind you. There is a steam bath and a rooftop foot bath. That bare simplicity is exactly what conveys the feeling of being a guest in the townspeople's bath.[3][4]