The spring a white monkey revealed
Tawarayama lies in the hills of Nagato, Yamaguchi. Tradition dates it to 916, when a white monkey, an incarnation of the Yakushi Buddha, led a hunter to the water. In the Edo period it served as a toji spa run directly by the Mori lords of Choshu (official site). One of the 'four baths of Bocho' with Yuda, Kawatana and Nagato-Yumoto, it was designated a National Recuperation Spa in 1955.[4][2][1]
A town without private baths
Tawarayama's defining trait is that the inns have no baths. Wikipedia counts just one inn with its own; everyone else walks to the public bathhouses. The prefectural federation explains this as a way of protecting a limited supply of water. The inns have dwindled from about forty to sixteen, but the sight of guests in yukata heading down the street to Machi-no-yu or Hakuen-no-yu is unchanged. Machi-no-yu uses the original source, with tub no. 1 at about 41 °C and the silkier tub no. 2; Hakuen-no-yu, opened in 2004, draws on the biggest source and adds an open-air bath, a foot bath and a drinking fountain. Overnight guests buy a pass good for both.[2][1][3]
Using it as a toji spa
The pH 9.9 water is slippery on the skin and enters the tubs at bathing temperature. The bus from Nagato-Yumoto takes 20–30 minutes, and the single street means you cannot get lost even over several days. With few restaurants, meals are mostly at the inn. The toji day, first bath at Machi-no-yu, a nap, then Hakuen-no-yu towards evening, works perfectly well alone. Confirm fees and hours on the notices or with the Tawarayama Onsen company (0837-29-0001).[2][1][5]