From Gyoki to Basho
The tourist association begins Yamanaka's story some 1,300 years ago, when the Nara-period monk Gyoki is said to have found the spring guided by the Buddha of healing. In the 1180s the warrior Hasebe Nobutsura revived it after watching a white heron bathe a wounded leg. In 1689 Matsuo Basho stayed nine days on his Narrow Road journey and wrote that at Yamanaka one need not pluck chrysanthemums, the scent of the water itself being enough for a long life.[2][4][3]
A town built around its public bath
The Kaga spa towns (Yamashiro, Yamanaka, Katayamazu, Awazu) share the custom of a 'soyu', a communal bath, at the centre of town. Yamanaka's Kiku-no-yu has a men's hall under a great Tempyo-style roof and a women's hall with a curving roof, facing each other across the street, with the lacquer-ceilinged Yamanaka-za hall beside them. The association's history counts 12 inns in the Edo period; Wikipedia counts 26 today. Even inn guests traditionally walk to the soyu, and still pay half price there.[2][4][3]
Lacquer and the gorge
Yamanaka is also a town of wood-turners, and its lacquerware is as much a signature as the water. Yamanaka-bushi, a folk song sung since the Genroku era, is performed as dance at Yamanaka-za every weekend. The Daishoji River cuts the Kakusenkei gorge along the east of town: a 1.3 km path runs from the all-cypress Korogi Bridge (the fourth version, completed 2019) to the 94.7 m steel S-curve of Ayatori Bridge, designed by ikebana master Hiroshi Teshigahara.[2][3]