CastleMountain castle (yamajiro)Japan's 100 Fine Castles No. 35
What makes this castle distinctive
A giant mountain castle spread over seven ridges in Noto, whose view so impressed its conqueror, Uesugi Kenshin, that he wrote it was even finer than he had heard.
Why?
Nanao Castle was built in the early 16th century by the Hatakeyama, the military governors of Noto, and covers an area about 2.5 km north to south and 1.0 km east to west. Its many baileys (kuruwa) ran along seven ridges, the "seven tails" that gave Nanao its name. After taking the castle in 1577, Kenshin wrote a letter praising it as a stronghold where mountains and sea came together, with scenery too beautiful to paint.[1][7]
Three things not to miss
01
Nanao Bay from the main bailey
Where
The honmaru (main bailey) site, about 305 m above sea level.
What to look at
The town of Nanao below, Nanao Bay, and the islands of the Noto Peninsula.
Why it's interesting
The honmaru stands about 250 m above the old castle town at its foot. Uesugi Kenshin, who captured the castle, wrote that it was the key to Kaga, Etchu and Noto, a stronghold combining mountain and sea, with views of the sea and islands that no painting could capture.[1][7][4]
Can you see it?
Partly visibleThe route from the North Honmaru Parking Lot to the honmaru is open; some areas remain closed after the 2024 earthquake.
North of the honmaru, around the Sakura-no-baba bailey, and west of the Nukui residence site, among other places.
What to look at
Walls of unshaped natural stone built up in several tiers.
Why it's interesting
The stones are thought to have been carried up from streams in the valleys below. The largest walls, over 2 m high, are concentrated on the slopes between the honmaru and the second bailey, showing how the heart of the mountain castle was reinforced.[8][5][6]
Can you see it?
Partly visibleThe 2024 earthquake caused over 23 cases of collapsed walls and ground cracks, mainly around the central baileys, and some areas are still closed. The path between the Yusa residence and Sakura-no-baba does not lead up to the honmaru (city notice, August 2026).
The baileys on the ridges extending from the honmaru, such as the Yusa and Nukui residence sites and Chodomaru.
What to look at
The flat residence plots grouped ridge by ridge, and the names attached to them.
Why it's interesting
Rather than a castle built around the honmaru, Nanao is described as a cluster of semi-independent groups of baileys, where the Hatakeyama and their senior retainers, such as the Nukui, Yusa, Cho and Miyake families, each kept a residence. The retainers' strength later fed the infighting that led to the castle's fall.[8][9][6]
Can you see it?
Partly visibleThe old main approach (Hakamagoshi to Chodomaru) reopened on August 8, 2026, so you can again walk around the area of the honmaru, though some sections remain closed.
At a glance for visitors
Nearest station
from JR Nanao Station (then bus)
Climb
Steep climb
Time neededEditors' estimate
30–50 minutes for the central area from the North Honmaru Parking Lot, or about 2.5 hours round trip to walk the whole site from the foot (both city estimates).
Admission
Adults 200 yen, university students 150 yen, high school students and younger free. Free for holders of disability certificates and one companion.
Hours
9:00–17:00 (last entry 16:30)
Access
Partly open
The castle site is free to walk, but some areas are closed after the 2024 earthquake. The Shiroyama observation deck and its grounds (including toilets) are closed. The ground is rough, so wear boots or well-worn shoes. The Japan 100 Castles stamp is under the eaves at the front entrance of the Nanao Castle History Museum (usable even when it is closed) and on the first floor of Nanao City Hall.
The Noto Hatakeyama first governed from an administrative headquarters at Fuchu, near today's central Nanao. Around the early 16th century they built Nanao Castle on a natural stronghold in the Sekidozan mountains about 4 km to the southeast, with the castle town of Nanao at its foot, creating a new base that combined mountain and town. The city sees this as the Hatakeyama transforming themselves from appointed governors into independent Sengoku warlords.[1][7]
02
Historical record
A Hatakeyama castle with a taste of Kyoto
The Noto Hatakeyama became governors of Noto in 1408. The third head, Yoshimune, moved to Noto and strengthened their rule, and under the seventh, Yoshifusa, it became stable enough that nobles and poets came from the capital, and poetry gatherings were held at Yoshifusa's residence in the castle. A Zen monk who visited in 1544 wrote that the mountaintop halls spread like a bird's wings, painted in vermilion and indigo, as if a ladder had been set against the clouds.[1][7]
03
Historical record
A whole mountain like a town
The castle grounds cover about 252.6 ha, and locals call the area Shiroyama, "castle mountain." Senior retainers' residences lined the ridges, so daily life and government took place on the mountain itself. In the late 16th century the castle town at the foot was also enclosed by moats and earthen ramparts (sogamae), with residences inside and craftsmen and merchants outside.[1][8]
04
Historical record
Siege by Kenshin and betrayal from within
By the late Sengoku period the Hatakeyama had grown weak, and three senior retainer families, the Cho, Yusa and Nukui, were fighting for control. In November 1576 Uesugi Kenshin invaded Noto and besieged Nanao Castle, but its defenses held and he withdrew to Echigo. He returned in the leap seventh month of 1577, and when the senior retainer Yusa Tsugumitsu secretly went over to him, the castle fell in the ninth month.[7][9]
05
Historical record
Replaced by a castle near the port
After the fall, Uesugi forces held the castle briefly, and in 1581 Maeda Toshiie, granted Noto by Oda Nobunaga, moved in. Between 1582 and about 1589 Toshiie built a new castle on Komaruyama near the port, and Nanao Castle lost its role. None of its buildings survive, but many baileys and stone walls remain on the mountain.[1][9]
06
Historical record
National Historic Site, recovering from the 2024 earthquake
The Nanao Castle site was designated a National Historic Site in 1934, with additions in 2011 and 2019. The Noto Peninsula Earthquake of January 1, 2024 caused more than 23 cases of collapsed walls and ground cracks, mainly around the central baileys. Excavation for repairing the Kushakuishi stone has begun, and on August 8, 2026 the old main approach (Hakamagoshi to Chodomaru), closed since the quake, was reopened.[10][5][6]
Maeda Toshiie is granted Noto and enters the castle[1]
Designated a National Historic Site (expanded in 2011 and 2019)[10]
The Noto Peninsula Earthquake causes damage at more than 23 spots[5]
The old main approach, closed since the quake, reopens on August 8[6][1]
Buildings and remains
The keep today
No keep was built
There is no keep; the Japan Castle Foundation notes only a surviving turret base. The official English description says the buildings were probably single-story wooden structures.
The site today
The whole Shiroyama area is a National Historic Site, with baileys and stone walls in the cedar forest. A prefectural road reaches close to the honmaru, and the Nanao Castle History Museum stands at the trailhead at the foot. Some areas have been closed since the 2024 earthquake.
Main buildings
Key facts
Type
Castle
Setting
Mountain castle (yamajiro)built on a mountain; expect a climbEditorial article
Period
Medieval (c.1185–1570s)Editorial article
Keep (tenshu)
No keep was builtthe castle never had a keepEditorial article
Built by
Hatakeyama clan, Hatakeyama MitsunoriJapan Castle Foundation
Built
1428Japan Castle Foundation
Main lords
Hatakeyama clan, Ajisaka Nagazane, Maeda clanJapan Castle Foundation
National Historic Site (Nanao Castle ruins) (1934)Editorial article
Selection
Japan's 100 Fine Castles No. 35Japan Castle Foundation
Visiting
Access
Partly open
The castle site is free to walk, but some areas are closed after the 2024 earthquake. The Shiroyama observation deck and its grounds (including toilets) are closed. The ground is rough, so wear boots or well-worn shoes. The Japan 100 Castles stamp is under the eaves at the front entrance of the Nanao Castle History Museum (usable even when it is closed) and on the first floor of Nanao City Hall.
Address
Furuyashiki-machi, Kojo-machi and surrounding area, Nanao, Ishikawa (Nanao Castle History Museum: 8-2 Shikamayabu, Furuyashiki-machi)[3][12]
Checked: 2026-10-03
Nearest stations and how to get there
JR Nanao Station (then bus)JR Nanao Line, Noto Railway
Steep climb
From the station, take the Marine-go city loop bus (100 yen) to Joshi Shiryokan-mae. From there it is a mountain hike to the honmaru (about an hour, per the official English description).[2][9]
Checked: 2026-10-03
Hours and admission
Nanao Castle History Museum
Hours
9:00–17:00 (last entry 16:30)
Closed
Mondays (or the next day if a holiday), the day after a national holiday, and in winter (December 11 – March 10)
Admission
Adults 200 yen, university students 150 yen, high school students and younger free. Free for holders of disability certificates and one companion.[3]
Checked: 2026-10-03
By car / parking
Turn east off Route 159 at the Fujino-machi intersection and follow Prefectural Road 177 (Shiroyama Line) to the Honmaru parking lot (about 10 minutes from the Shiroyama intersection). Buses can use the road, but watch for low branches. The trailhead parking lot at the foot is free and has toilets.[2][1]
Checked: 2026-10-03
Grounds opening hours
No set opening hours for the site could be confirmedChecked: 2026-10-03
Time neededEditors' estimate
30–50 minutes for the central area from the North Honmaru Parking Lot, or about 2.5 hours round trip to walk the whole site from the foot (both city estimates).
Steps, slopes and footing
The trail climbs about 250 m from the foot to the honmaru, with many steep sections best suited to strong walkers. Rain has washed away soil in places, making them slippery. There are no vending machines on the trail.[2][6][1]
Wheelchairs and strollers
Not confirmed (the mountain paths are likely unsuitable for wheelchairs)Checked: 2026-10-03
Toilets and rest
At the trailhead parking lot and the North Honmaru Parking Lot. The toilets at the Shiroyama observation deck are closed.[2][4]
English signs / audio guide
Nanao City's website has an English guide, "Welcome to Nanao Castle," produced by the Japan Tourism Agency.[9]
Seasons
Not confirmed
Photography
Not confirmed
Works, closures and restrictions
The old main approach (Hakamagoshi to Chodomaru) has been open since August 8, 2026. Some dangerous spots remain closed, and the path between the Yusa residence and Sakura-no-baba does not lead to the honmaru. The Shiroyama observation deck is closed. The Nanao Castle History Museum closes for winter from December 11.[1][6][4][3]Checked: 2026-10-03
Suggested routes
Full course: from the foot to the honmaru 150 min
Start at the trailhead parking lot near the Nanao Castle History Museum
Climb the old main approach (Hakamagoshi to Chodomaru reopened in August 2026)
See the ridge baileys such as Chodomaru and the second bailey
Take in Nanao Bay from the honmaru
Return the same way
About 150 minutes round trip, per Nanao City's walking guide. Check maps and signs on site for closed areas.
Central course: from the North Honmaru Parking Lot 40 min
Park at the North Honmaru Parking Lot
Loop around the central baileys centered on the honmaru
Park on the site of Komaruyama Castle, which Maeda Toshiie built near the port to replace Nanao Castle. After post-earthquake repairs, the first section reopened on August 12, 2025, though some areas are still unrepaired.[13][1]
Checked: 2026-10-03
Editors' guide
An editorial guide based on sources and confirmed information — not a first-hand visit report.
Who will enjoy it
For those who want to properly explore a Sengoku-era mountain castle, people who enjoy reading the terrain of walls and baileys, and anyone interested in Uesugi Kenshin or the history of Noto.
What makes it interesting
The view of Nanao Bay from the honmaru is the very scene Kenshin praised in his letter. On the way, look at the retainers' residence sites ridge by ridge and the stepped fieldstone walls, and you start to see a castle where the whole mountain was like a town.
Before you go
Because of the 2024 earthquake, the open paths and viewable areas have changed. Check Nanao City's latest notice and map before you go, and stay out of closed areas. The ground is rough, so wear boots or good walking shoes. The museum closes for winter (December 11 – March 10).
Ways to enjoy it
Watch the reconstruction CG and see the finds at the Nanao Castle History Museum at the foot before you climb; it makes it easier to imagine vermilion-and-indigo halls on ridges that are now cedar forest. If time is short, drive up to the North Honmaru Parking Lot and walk just the central area.
Photos
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Open questions
The construction date is unclear. The city places it around the early 16th century; the Japan Castle Foundation gives about 1504–1528, under the seventh head, Hatakeyama Yoshifusa.
City materials differ on direction: the main page places the castle about 4 km southeast of the old provincial office, while the "Castle Conditions" document says southwest (on the map it is southeast).
A monument on the honmaru bears Kenshin's Chinese-style poem "Thirteenth Night of the Ninth Month" (secondary source); tradition says he composed it during the Nanao campaign.
Post-earthquake access information is from city notices as of August–October 2026. Seasonal highlights, photo rules and accessibility could not be confirmed. Only three usable Commons photos (from 2009) were found, and none shows the view from the honmaru.
