A trickle on the shore
Hot water had always seeped weakly from this shore. In 1970 a well was drilled 200 metres down and the water came up under its own pressure, and the lone inn Furofushi Onsen opened. The name plays on furo-fushi, "neither ageing nor dying". Today it remains a single inn; every one of its rooms, from 48 tatami rooms to 17 modern Japanese-style rooms, faces the sea.[2][4]
Iron, salt and air
Underground the water is clear, but its dissolved iron binds with oxygen as soon as it reaches the air, and the pools turn the colour of rust. The salt content is close to seawater. The source is 49°C and neutral at pH 6.2–6.7, yielding about 400 litres a minute. The outdoor pools are dug into the rock a few steps from the breaking waves, and close when the sea is rough or lightning threatens.[2][1]
How a day visit works
Day visitors buy a ticket at the machine (1,000 yen adults, 500 yen children, cash only). The three baths keep different hours: the main-building Kogane-no-yu 9:00–19:00, the new-wing Furofushi-no-yu 10:30–14:00, and the seaside bath 9:00–16:00. There are no showers on the shore, so wash indoors first. Photography is banned outside, bathing wraps can be hired for 400 yen, and the inn states that guests with tattoos cannot use the baths.[1]