The bath nearest the sky
Manza lies inside Joshin'etsu Kogen National Park at 1,800 m on the flank of Mt Kusatsu-Shirane, and with Nigorigo in Gifu is counted as the highest onsen in Japan reachable by private car all year. Nobody knows when the spring was first used; Yayoi-period pottery has been found nearby, and warriors came to bathe in the sixteenth century. It remained a modest toji spot through the Edo period and only took off after the war, when Seibu Group resort development brought proper roads.[2][3]
How much sulfur
The water is an acidic sulfur spring of the hydrogen-sulfide type, milky white or yellowish. Wikipedia gives it the highest sulfur content in Japan, a flow of 3,750 litres a minute and a source temperature of about 80 °C; the association counts about 20 sources and 5.4 million litres a day. Hot water seeps up all along the riverbed, and the source area is wrapped in steam and the smell of sulfur. At the edge of the resort the Karabuki vents blow steam and hydrogen sulfide, Manza's signature sight.[2][1]
Bathing at altitude
The air at 1,800 m is thin and about 10 °C cooler than below. Long soaks in hot sulfur water are tiring up here, so bathe briefly and often. Each inn draws on a different source, so the cloudiness and smell vary a little. Nisshinkan offers 3–6-night 'new toji' plans and morning exercise, a modern version of the therapeutic stays that were Manza's business until the post-war years.[3][2]
One road in
The only year-round road is the Manza Highway toll road. From spring to autumn you can also come over from Kusatsu or Shiga Kogen on the Shiga-Kusatsu highland route, but it closes in winter, and volcanic alerts on Mt Kusatsu-Shirane can shut the Sesshogawara–Manza junction stretch at any time. By public transport, Seibu buses take about 40 minutes from Manza-Kazawaguchi Station and about 90 from Karuizawa. Nisshinkan runs guest shuttles from Karuizawa and Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi, booking required.[2][4]