The spring a deer revealed
The Nasu resort area is a scatter of springs on the southern slopes of Mt Nasu (Chausu), and Shika-no-yu in Nasu-Yumoto is the original. In legend, in the reign of Emperor Jomei in the early seventh century, a hunter named Kano Saburo Yukihiro followed a deer he had wounded and found it healing itself in the hot water, hence the name 'deer bath'. A document in the Shosoin archive of 738 records the Nasu springs, and in 'The Tale of the Heike' the archer Nasu no Yoichi prays to the 'great deity of the Nasu springs' before his legendary shot. Feudal lords came to bathe in the Edo period; in 1645 the lord of Morioka petitioned the shogunate for leave to take the cure here.[3][6]
Six temperatures
The bathhouse was rebuilt in 1941 and has been used unchanged since. Inside, six tubs stand at 41, 42, 43, 44, 46 and 48 °C (the women's side lacks the 48), and you choose the one your body can take. The water is a simple acidic sulfur spring, pH under 3, milky white. Soap and shampoo are banned because they will not lather and make the floor slippery. 500 yen, 8:00–18:00.[3][4][2]
Two hundred ladles
How to bathe is set out in numbers on the official site. First the kaburi-yu: about 200 ladles of hot water over the head for adults, 100 for children. Then 'short hot immersions', one minute to the waist, one to the chest, one to the neck, repeated, for a session of about 15 minutes. It is an old routine for acclimatising the body and keeping blood from rushing to the head, and sand timers are provided inside.[3][2]
Walk up to the killing stone
A few minutes up the Yukawa River from Shika-no-yu is Nasu Onsen Shrine, and beyond it a stony, lifeless field and the Sessho-seki. Volcanic gas here killed birds and animals, hence the name 'killing stone', and legend says a nine-tailed fox was turned to stone on the spot. Basho visited in 1689 and a verse stone marks it. Designated a national Place of Scenic Beauty in 2014, the rock split clean in two in March 2022. Buses from Kuroiso take about 35 minutes; Nasushiobara is about 75 minutes from Tokyo by Shinkansen.[5][3][7]