Milky white: not only sulfur

The commonest cause of milky water is hydrogen sulfide meeting air and forming tiny particles of sulfur. A sulfur spring may emerge clear and only turn white in the tub (Naruko, Zao, Manza). The particles scatter light, so shallow water looks bluish-white and deep water milky.

Another cause is fine calcium carbonate. Shirahone's whiteness is of this kind; there is a sulfur smell, but calcium carbonate does the clouding. Metasilicic acid can cloud water too.

Milkiness changes daily with air temperature, water temperature and ventilation; the same tub can differ between morning and evening. "Not white today" is nothing unusual.

Shirahone public open-air bath Soica2001 (talk) · Public domain

Shirahone Onsen

白骨温泉

Nagano · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 50

SulfurBicarbonate

Clear as it emerges, white once it meets the air. Shirahone's milkiness comes not just from sulfur but from calcium carbonate that solidifies, even building the 'funto-kyu' spring mounds.

Milky open-air bath surrounded by snow SpringField1967 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Manza Onsen

万座温泉

Gunma · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 29

SulfurAcidic

At 1,800 metres, 5.4 million litres of sulfur water a day. Thin air, deep snow, and a milky bath in the middle of it.

Entrance of a wooden communal bathhouse Zhaitengli · CC BY 4.0

Naruko Onsen

鳴子温泉

Miyagi · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 18

SulfurSulfateBicarbonateChlorideSimpleIronAcidic

Seven of Japan's ten official spring types in one valley. The communal Takinoyu by the station costs 300 yen, and the town lends you wooden geta to clatter from bath to bath.

Blue: particles scatter blue light

Beppu's Myoban, Marukoma in Hokkaido, the "blue open-air baths" of Niseko and Hakone: blue is not the colour of a dissolved mineral but of very fine particles (sulfur or silica) scattering short-wavelength light, the same physics as a blue sky. As particles grow the water turns white, and with more of them, milky.

Water advertised as "cobalt blue" or "emerald" varies with light, so knowing this narrows the gap between expectation and reality.

Thatched yunohana huts Belle Equipe · CC BY-SA 3.0

Myōban Onsen

明礬温泉

Oita · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 87

SulfurAcidic

On the floor of a thatched hut, crystals grow a millimetre a day from volcanic steam and blue clay: 'yunohana' bath salts, made this way since 1725.

A mountain rising beyond the lake Soica2001 (talk) · Public domain

Marukoma Onsen

丸駒温泉

Hokkaido · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 4

ChlorideBicarbonateSulfate

The bath is exactly as deep as Lake Shikotsu is high that day: an open-air tub joined to the lake.

Green: sulfur and pH in balance

The green water of Tsukioka (Niigata) and Kunimi (Iwate) comes from the combination of sulfur compounds and pH. It ranges from yellow-green to deep green and, again, changes from day to day. Iron-bearing water can also take on a yellow-green tint.

Streetscape of Tsukioka Onsen 663highland · CC BY 2.5

Tsukioka Onsen

月岡温泉

Niigata · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 38

SulfurChloride

A green so vivid people think it is bath salts: the sulfur in the water shows itself as colour in the tub.

Brown and red: iron rusting

Iron springs emerge clear. On contact with air the iron rusts (oxidises) and the water clouds brown to reddish-brown: Arima's gold spring, Ikaho's golden water, Furofushi. Every iron-bearing water does this, which is why tubs and floors stain red — and towels too.

Brown, cloudy open-air bath 663highland · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arima Onsen

有馬温泉

Hyogo · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 62

IronChlorideCO₂Radon

Salt and iron thicker than seawater in the 'gold' spring, carbon dioxide and radon in the 'silver': two utterly different waters rise five minutes' walk apart.

Stone steps of Ikaho Onsen ShuichiNakayama · CC BY 4.0

Ikaho Onsen

伊香保温泉

Gunma · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 28

SulfateBicarbonateChloride

The spring runs beneath 365 stone steps and is tapped off to the inns tier by tier. A town built around the iron-browned 'golden water'.

An open-air hot-spring pool set among rocks on the shore at dusk おにく · CC0

Furofushi Onsen

黄金崎不老不死温泉

Aomori · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 12

ChlorideIron

A rust-brown pool cut into the rocks at the very edge of the Sea of Japan, with nothing between you and the sunset.

Black: ancient plants

Tokyo's "kuroyu", Tokachigawa in Hokkaido and several Niigata springs are the colour of strong tea or cola. Not volcanic, they are groundwater that has passed through peat or lignite and dissolved plant-derived organic matter (humic substances). Called "moor springs", they feel silky. Tokachigawa is known as one of the world's few plant-derived moor springs.

Hotels along the Tokachi River 663highland · CC BY 2.5

Tokachigawa Onsen

十勝川温泉

Hokkaido · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 6

ChlorideBicarbonate

Not volcanic heat but ancient plants: the brown, silky 'moor' spring that defines the type in Japan.

Springs that change colour

Yunomine's Tsuboyu is said to change colour seven times a day, moving between clear, white and blue. Some baths at Sukayu and Naruko also vary in cloudiness with the weather. The reasons are as above: particle load and light. That is why this atlas does not boost the colours in photographs — the real water is whatever colour it is that day.

Small hot-spring hamlet in a valley Nekosuki · CC BY-SA 4.0

Yunomine Onsen

湯の峰温泉

Wakayama · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 66

SulfurBicarbonate

You can bathe in a World Heritage site, thirty minutes at a time. The Tsuboyu, a pool hollowed from rock, is where Kumano pilgrims purified themselves.

A large wooden inn in the mountains ゆ^ω^び · CC BY-SA 2.1 jp

Sukayu Onsen

酸ヶ湯

Aomori · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 9

AcidicSulfur

A 160-tatami bathhouse of hiba cypress without a single pillar, where men and women share acidic water under Japan's deepest snow.

Glossary

Moor spring
Dark brown water containing plant-derived organic matter; from the German "Moor" (peat bog).
Precipitation
Dissolved substances turning into solid particles — the cause of cloudiness and yunohana flakes.

Related onsen

Shirahone public open-air bath Soica2001 (talk) · Public domain

Shirahone Onsen

白骨温泉

Nagano · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 50

SulfurBicarbonate

Clear as it emerges, white once it meets the air. Shirahone's milkiness comes not just from sulfur but from calcium carbonate that solidifies, even building the 'funto-kyu' spring mounds.

Thatched yunohana huts Belle Equipe · CC BY-SA 3.0

Myōban Onsen

明礬温泉

Oita · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 87

SulfurAcidic

On the floor of a thatched hut, crystals grow a millimetre a day from volcanic steam and blue clay: 'yunohana' bath salts, made this way since 1725.

Streetscape of Tsukioka Onsen 663highland · CC BY 2.5

Tsukioka Onsen

月岡温泉

Niigata · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 38

SulfurChloride

A green so vivid people think it is bath salts: the sulfur in the water shows itself as colour in the tub.

Brown, cloudy open-air bath 663highland · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arima Onsen

有馬温泉

Hyogo · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 62

IronChlorideCO₂Radon

Salt and iron thicker than seawater in the 'gold' spring, carbon dioxide and radon in the 'silver': two utterly different waters rise five minutes' walk apart.

Hotels along the Tokachi River 663highland · CC BY 2.5

Tokachigawa Onsen

十勝川温泉

Hokkaido · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 6

ChlorideBicarbonate

Not volcanic heat but ancient plants: the brown, silky 'moor' spring that defines the type in Japan.

Small hot-spring hamlet in a valley Nekosuki · CC BY-SA 4.0

Yunomine Onsen

湯の峰温泉

Wakayama · 100 Onsen to Know Japan — No. 66

SulfurBicarbonate

You can bathe in a World Heritage site, thirty minutes at a time. The Tsuboyu, a pool hollowed from rock, is where Kumano pilgrims purified themselves.