INTRODUCTION
What My Hands Remember
Recipes live in the hands before they live on paper. After fifteen years in a kitchen, that is the one thing I am sure of.
This book records the fifteen years between the day I entered a small Japanese restaurant at eighteen and the day I opened my own place at thirty-three, together with the forty-eight recipes my hands learned along the way. The first half is the story of the training; the second half is the recipe collection.
The story comes first for a reason. Copying the numbers in a recipe will not give you the same dish. When I draw dashi — the broth at the base of Japanese cooking — I do not watch a thermometer. I watch the size of the bubbles rising from the bottom of the pot, and the way the edge of the kelp begins to sway. I wanted to show how that kind of knowledge settles into the hands before asking you to cook from the second half.
I have hidden nothing — not the measurements, not the seasoning of the staff meals, not the failures of my own restaurant. I am a cook, not a writer; this book began as spoken answers to an interviewer's questions, later reworked in my own words. For readers new to Japanese cooking, this edition adds short chapters on dashi, Japanese knives, and the pantry. Read in any order you like — but come back, sometime, for the story of the hands.
— End of the Introduction —