Field note 05

Preparation note: what to look for when a maiko dances

Before the visit, the editor writes down what she intends to watch: the knees, the fan, the eyes, the pause, and where kyomai differs from nihon buyo.

White tabi-socked feet in a sliding-step stance on a wooden floor, kimono hem above
Suriashi: the sliding step that never leaves the floor.

One profession, five schools

Gion Kobu dances kyomai of the Inoue school; Miyagawacho, Pontocho, Kamishichiken and Gion Higashi use the Wakayagi, Onoe, Hanayagi and Fujima schools of nihon buyo. Each is a tradition with its own lineage and repertoire, so this note describes rather than judges.

The knees

Books and teachers of Japanese dance keep returning to the same point: soft knees and low hips, so that the head travels in a straight line and the sleeves do not bounce. In a maiko this is still being built, and I expect the visible effort to be part of what audiences find beautiful. I have not yet sat in a Kyoto theatre with this question in mind; that is what the visit is for.

The fan

A fan can be a cup, a letter, rain, a moon. The test is whether it opens without the wrist showing the work. The Agency for Cultural Affairs describes kyomai's Noh and puppet-theatre roots and its restrained, weighted movement, and Inoue-school dancers speak of mai rather than odori; I expect the fan to stay closer to the body than in the nihon buyo I have seen on stage, and I will check that expectation against what I see.

The eyes and the pause

The gaze arrives before the body. The pause, ma, is where an audience decides whether the dancer means it. A visitor meets both in a first lesson of Japanese dance; a maiko spends years on them.

What I will do in Kyoto

Sit at one of the October recitals or at Gion Corner with a notebook and write down, for one piece, what the fan did and where the eyes went. Then rewrite this note with what I actually saw, keeping this version as the record of what I expected.

J-Catalyst